Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Vertical Darwinism: Figure 8 vs. Double Bowline

This is going to be a bumpy ride.  It has been debated for years and lately the argument has been heated. So, I guess it is my turn to throw my hat into the ring and see how much backlash I get. This is still something I am researching so please let me know of any reliable resources that you might shed further light on this topic.

Lets start out with a metaphor. Two cars: a minivan and a sporty convertible. One is known and loved. It has room for 7 in its roll cage and a reliable yet sluggish automatic transmission. The other is not as widely used but often coveted. It has a drop top and a zippy 6 speed manual. Assuming that both vehicles are in brand new condition, which one is safer?

The Figure 8 and Double Bowline cage match has picked up some steam with the recent accident involving John Long and an incomplete bowline knot. Many have taken the pulpit and proclaimed that the Double Bowline is a dangerous knot and should be banned from climbing gyms. Let's look at the arguments...

The Case Against the Double Bowline:
Strength- The Double Bowline knot technically weakens the rope more than a Figure 8 (*Numbers vary but all concur that the Figure 8 weakens the rope less.)

Simplicity- The Figure 8 is easily recognizable and therefore easy to check giving climbing partners a no-brainer check. The Double Bowline seems more complicated to check and may confuse a climbing party making it difficult for partners to correctly double check.

Safety Record- The properly tied figure 8 has, to my knowledge,  a 100%  safety record while the Double Bowline has at least been associated with several high-profile climbing accidents.

In Defense of the Double Bowline:
Strength- All knots weaken the rope by a certain percent, some more than others. Even by having a higher percentage of rope weakening, the strength of a well-maintained rope terminated in a Double Bowline is still well within the range of acceptable safety.

Simplicity- Some might argue that the Double Bowline is in fact a simpler knot to tie (one can do it without looking) and, after untying, it does not leave any knot in the rope to get snagged in anchors when pulling it after a lead. Climbing partners do question it when they don't understand it. But shouldn't that questioning prompt deeper investigation of  the correctness of the tie-in point and therefore a more thorough double check?

Safety Record- While the Double Bowline has been accused of associating itself with climbing accidents, I have not been able to find one documented case of a properly tied and backed up Double Bowline failure. John Long and Lynn Hill both attribute their falls to not completing their knot, which could happen with any knot if the climbing team is distracted.

The Verdict:
The THEORIST in me looks at the strength, the safety record, and the foolproof nature of the Figure 8(it even works moderately well when not finished) and quickly comes to the conclusion that it is the only knot that anyone should ever use for climbing.  Using any knot that has inferior stats would be dumb.

However, my inner PRAGMATIST has a slightly different opinion. I know that in climbing, different challenges call for different solutions.  I know that all knots have advantages and disadvantages. I know that each knot has a unique set of features that could be handy in certain scenarios. (For example: In joining two rope for rappel, the EDT weakens the rope by around 50% but is skilled at avoiding flakes and cracks) Maybe there is a time when the features of a slightly weaker knot could be advantageous?

So, which knot do I use?  I use both depending on the type of climbing, terrain, partners, weather, and rope. I use the Figure 8 in prolonged climbing situations, or when I have new partners, or when the rope is thick or frozen.  I use the Double Bowline for shorter climbs, with pliable ropes, experienced partners, or when I am going to be pulling rope through a fixed set of anchors so I don't forget to undo my starter knot. IT DEPENDS.

Which Car is Safest?
Obviously the safest car is the one left in the garage. But climbers are creatures of action; sloth does not become us. We need to choose one car to get to the crag.   Even the minivan with the five star safety rating could be operated by a texting teenager, and the relatively more dangerous convertible captained by an incredibly alert and responsible motorist.

At the end of the day, I would argue that, all other things being equal, the safest car is the one with the best driver.

*Please feel free to contact me if you are aware of any resources that might help shed light on this issue. Lets continue the conversation as we learn together.

Resources
http://www.bethandevans.com/pdf/8_strength.pdf
http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/Not-the-Knot.html?page=all
http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=3951.msg24432#msg24432


Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.


Thursday, October 3, 2013

Pulling Plastic: The Nylon Python

You are lowering your leader after their solid send, but you have to pause, effectively dangling them just feet above the gawking boy scout troop. Why? Because you are now engaged in a battle with a coiled python of nylon who refused to go quietly through your belay device.  You struggle to untangle the beast, all the while the boy scouts below your climber await like baby birds with mouths agape.

WHY? !!!?!!!1!

Why do gym ropes get all twisty? 
For that matter why do any ropes get all twisty? Imagine a rope in space. If you twist one end, the twist will travel like a wave and the other end 60m yonder will eventually turn as well, effectively expelling the twist. . One twist goes in, one twist comes out the other side. (I haven't tried it but it would be a really cool experiment when we get our passenger space programs running. Also slack-lining might be a lot less dangerous out there). When both ends are free to move twists have a way to escape the rope.

Bring the rope back to the gym. Check it for any damage possibly sustained upon re-entry. Flake it out on the ground. Your climber ties in. When this happens, the ends of the system are now closed. There is no way for twists to escape on that end since it is now locked in place and can't untwist. The other end is on the ground, underneath a pile of itself, rendering it unable to turn as well.  The only two ways for twists to escape this rope have now been closed off.

Then the belaying begins and there are more guilty parties involved: belay tools and brake hands. Brake hands without much effort can put small, fractional twists into the rope as they are belaying. Especially if the belayer incorporates a repetitive circular motion into their routine. Belay tools don't like to let twists get through. In fact they end up pushing twists down through the rope, concentrating the twists to one end. If that end is on the ground, the twists are trapped in the rope. Repeat this process a few times and all those small twists start adding up with no end in sight. To make matters worse, when finished leading, often we find both ends and coil from there towards the middle of the rope, pushing the twists to the center so they may strike at their next unassuming victim!


So what can we do avoid and/or pacify the nylon python?

1. Flake Well. Flake Often.
 Look for twists and send them to the ends of the rope to release the pressure and let them untwist. Have your climber wait to tie in until the flake is complete or else they will block the escape route. Also, be careful not to get too"circular" with your flaking and your brake hand motion. A random flaking pattern reduces the chance for repetition or a figure-eight style of flaking may help as it puts a half twist in, but takes a half twist out on the next loop.

2. Run it through.
Using the same end of the rope over and over will push the twists to the same spot. Run the rope all the way through if possible to let the twists run out the end and start from the opposite end(for both lead and top rope). Letting the full length of the rope run through the belay tool will force twists down and out of the end of the rope as well.
*Outside, a good rappel all the way to the end of the rope is very effective as it pushes twists from the center to the ends. A simulated rappel will also help. I set up a belay tool on a sling from my pull-up bar and pull the rope all the way through, starting at the center. REPEAT until tamed.

3. Be Kind. Rewind.
Coil from the center. It is much quicker to coil from the ends. But it traps twists and sends them to the center of the rope. Be considerate and take time to find the center and start there. It will reduce the frustration for the next party. It takes more time, but caring for our climbing community is worth it.
Isn't it?   Do your part, it helps everyone in the long run.

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Thursday, September 19, 2013

Vertical Darwinism: Rappel Knots


"That climb was EPIC! ...how do we get down?"

On larger climbs, rappels can be longer than one rope can span. That means you need a solid way of connecting two ropes for rappelling. Clearly a knowledgeable decision needs to be made with inputs from all climbers in the party. There are many ways to join 2 ropes together for rappel. Most commonly in the climbing world you will encounter one of these three. They differ in complexity, profile, and security.  Here is a brief run down so you can make your voice heard in the discussion.

Figure 8 Bend  "Ol' Trusty"
Complexity: High  
Profile: Large  
Security: High

Pros: Just like the figure eight tie-in knot it is familiar and easy to check. It is a strong knot that has a great safety record if you dress it well and back it up with your standard fisherman knots.
Cons: It's large profile takes more rope to create and also gives it a better chance to hang up on jagged rock features. It takes a bit more time to tie than some others and can be moderately difficult to get undone after the rap.

Double Fisherman's  "It works for bracelets...so...."
Complexity: Medium
Profile: Small
Security: Medium

Pros: This is a well recognized way to join two ropes together. It has many applications for cord of all sizes from ropes to bracelets to accessory cord loops.
Cons: This knot has a tendency to fuse tightly and can be very difficult to undo. It's small profile easily slips into cracks and may hang up. There is no official back up for this knot (except another knot).

Flat Overhand a.k.a. the EDK "European Death Knot?  Really?"
Complexity: Low
Profile: Medium (offset)
Security: Medium

Pros: This very simple knot has an offset profile which has a tendency to align the cords and rotate the knot away from the rock and thereby snag less on the way down.
Cons: Testing has found that this knot weakens the rope more than the other two. Also, under high tension, there is a possibility that it may roll repeatedly toward the end of the rope. This may have been the reason for the American nickname of the "European  Death Knot." According to a tension test on 11mm dynamic rope, the knot rolled at 1400, 1940, 1990, and then broke at 2070 lbs of tension.

*Sidenote- The Flat Figure Eight (the 8 version of the EDK) has a high likelihood of rolling over and should NOT be used for rappel!

Whichever you choose there are always two rules you must remember.
1. Leave plenty of tail on both ropes to lessen the chances of slippage and rolling.
2. Always use similar diameter ropes. Thin and a thick cords are not a good match. Keep your cords within a few mm of each other.
*Bonus- While you are at it, throw some stopper knots in at the end of your rope if you are at all concerned about having enough rope to get down.  Just make sure to UNTIE them BEFORE starting your retrieval pull.

Which knot you prefer and which one works the best for your situation is up to you and your climbing party. Each method has its benefits and drawbacks. The important thing is that you understand the risks involved and accept responsibility for your choices. A majority of incidents occur on the descent. How you get down is an important decision that should be agreed upon before you leave the ground. A windy, rainy, shivering summit is no place to engage in a heated debate about safety and comfort level of all involved. This is a discussion to be had with your climbing partners before the climb. May I suggest in the car whilst driving through Nebraska?


For More Climbing Knots:
Animated Knots by Grog

Tension Testing:
http://user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Friday, September 6, 2013

Pulling Plastic: 5 Suggestions for Route Setters



What makes a beer good?

I guess it depends what you are in the mood for. Something strong? Something cheap? Something hoppy? Something malty?

There are a lot of crappy, weak beers out there. There are also beers that are really strong, but that doesn't necessarily mean they are well crafted or even enjoyable.  I will still crack one open in a pinch. But I'm not going to recommend them to my friends.

I bet we could all agree that a good beer is one that really shows the craftsmanship of the brewer. One that gives us something unique that everyone can appreciate even if it isn't their favorite style.
A good route is a lot like a good beer. The climber should instantly be able to appreciate the craftsmanship.  We are lucky to have a dedicated community of setters at our local gyms. I know they are under a lot of pressure to create a high VOLUME of routes AND continue to deliver QUALITY. I offer this post as a suggestion to new route setters and a reminder to those who have kept us climbing for years. In no way do I mean this post to be an insult. I have set routes in the past so I understand how much time effort and creativity it takes to complete a route.

With that being said...

1. Be Considerate
Height and reach matter. Please avoid enormous reaches. Some might take the attitude that "reaches happen" and "it just makes you stronger." But if that reach is out of the realm of appropriate challenge, climbers give up and don't learn anything from it. Reasonable challenges are fine but think about these two ideas when setting...

90% Rule- If you can barely reach it, shorties definitely can't. Set holds not at the the full extent of your reach, at your fingertips(100%), but at your wrist(90%) or even forearm to give shorter people a chance.

Multiple Foot Options- Outside, the good holds may be far away but there are so many smaller options in between. An extra foot chip won't make it too easy. It just might make is more plausible and encouraging. Some of the most difficult routes have included multiple foot options that do not make it any easier, but they allow for many body types to enjoy the difficult sequence. 

Trust me. If a foot is set higher for a shorter person, I will not use it because it will throw me off balance. Likewise a shorter person will not use mine because it will stretch them out. One foot chip goes a long way. Like a Dachshund to a Great Dane, the smaller dog has to take many more steps than the bigger one. Allow for it.

2. Be Intentional
AKA: Dont spew holds!
Everyone climbs a route in a different way depending on their size, style and abilities. But routes should have an intended path. Avoid setting up a gauntlet of random holds that might be useful in different ways to different climbers. On one hand, it will still up a lot of conversation, on the other hand it just might be confusing and awkward. See #4

3. Be Consistent
AKA: Don't get carried away!
Route setters are creative people who often become inspired as they find new sequences. One move will inspire the next. That can be a thing of beauty, but it can also increase the difficulty of the route as it ascends. Even with the best intention, the 5.7 becomes harder along the way because the route setter thought, "Wouldn't it be cool if they had to..." Save the 5.10 moves for the 5.10s. Stay the course, even if it means being a bit more boring on this one. Remember the move and put it into a route where it fits. Or change the beginning of the route to fit with the style of your landmark move.

4. Be Excellent 
AKA: Improve your own climbing technique!
THE BEST ROUTES I have climbed in the gym have been set by the BEST CLIMBERS I have known. Climbers who have truly mastered the craft, understand a blend of strength and technique. This mastery can't help but seep into their routes. On a well crafted route, a climber can feel the intention, movement, and even personality of the route setter. You actually feel like them when you climb it. So, how do people feel when they climb your routes? Awkward? Frustrated? Confused? Look back on your own climbing for the reasons why.

5. Be Nice 
AKA: Don't F^%& us over!
There is fine line between creativity and cruelty. That final FU hold or turning a hold upside-down just to make it "more interesting" does not make the route more fun or even better. If you have to resort to cruelty to make your route more challenging or interesting, ask yourself why your route needs to be more interesting in the first place. But I guess that there are some people who like that kind of thing... Maybe just write a "safe word" on the route tag? How about "butterscotch" or "John Tesh"?

In Summary:
Give us consistent, intentional routes that show us your understanding of strength, movement, and balance, that also are considerate of the possibilities and limitations of our unique body types.

So...
What makes a route good?

I guess it depends what you are in the mood for. Fluid movement? Dynamic throws? Powerful slopers? Delicate crimpers?

There are a lot of weak and overrated routes out there. There are also routes that are really difficult, but that doesn't necessarily mean they are well crafted or even enjoyable. I will still climb them in a pinch. But I'm not going to recommend them to my friends.

I bet we could all agree that a good route is one that really shows the craftsmanship of the setter. One that gives us something unique that everyone can appreciate even if it isn't their favorite style.

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.



Tuesday, August 27, 2013

Vertical Darwinism: Attachment Issues

"Are you attached?" This is more than a blunt way to check the dating status of an assumed Scorpio at a local watering hole. It is a crucial question that we should always ask ourselves when hanging out at a belay station. There are many ways to attach yourself to that all-sustaining MASTER POINT. But which method is right for you?

Let me count the ways...

Slings-
A sling girth hitched to a harness can offer the security you are looking for. They work in your anchor and for slinging trees and chickenheads. So why not use them to attach yourself to an anchor? That is less of a hypothetical question than it seems. First off, girth hitching slings actually weakens their capacity. (See my "Slings and Things" post for more detail)  Secondly, slings can be loosy-goosey to deal with because of their length and lack of structure. This makes it difficult to adjust your distance from the anchor.  If you are using one you can tie limiting knots in them to add length options and give the carabiner a home base in the sling.

Daisy Chain- 
This is basically a hefty sling with sewn separations. It has more structure and seems more convenient than just using a regular old sling. So is it better? Organizationally, YES because there are a lot of little loops for you to use. Safety-wise, NO because tests have found that a high factor fall, like one from directly above an anchor, can cause stitching between the loops to fail. That is not surprising to find out because they were originally designed for use in Aiding and not intended for anyone to be falling on them. (Um... Neither are the above mentioned Slings...)

*Also note that, when using a Daisy Chain, if your carabiner is in two separate loops, you technically are in no loops at all because of Math. Topology would say that the letter B is the same as the letter O if the connector in the middle of the B gives way. A carabiner connected to both loops of the B is really hanging out in the bleak nothingness encapsulated by the O. So if you do use one, remember, "BO"...
Here is an excellent video illustrating this exact point.

Cord System- 
You will see some climbers have switched from the Daisy Chain to a wild system of cord that, using a combination of knots and magic,  can be extended to the desired length. This is a redundant system that can also be dynamic and absorb a fall depending on what type of cord you use. The only downside to this system is that it is a lot of cord hangin' out down there, which can get a bit messy and tangled. It is solid but just not as tidy as some other methods.

PAS- 
This multi-loop system consists of multiple loops. Yup.  Each loop is designed like a belay loop, where it is wrapped around itself twice, granting great strength in each segment. It is strong, compact, and stows away well. It also allows the climber to use more than one loop to attach if they deem it necessary since each loop is independent.

Cammed Webbing- 
I have also seen climbers using a strap with a camming device to adjust the length of the attachment. Mostly I see this used inside for route setting when you are tied into a rope as well. But hey, if it keeps a canoe on your roof rack...


Which Method is Best?
I don't know if there is a best, but I think there is a consensus that Slings and Daisy Chains are probably not the best. Personally, I use the PAS. I find that it is strong, lightweight, convenient, and compact. So run out and get one. Or I guess just head to REI and ask for a "climbing strap" and see what they hand you. But whatever method you choose, avoid taking falls onto anchors at close range. These falls are high fall factors which are not good for any of the above options. Anchor attachments should be for just that, attachments. They should not be dynamically weighted.

Regardless of your method, make sure it runs through your two strong points. NEVER on your belay loop.  Yes, I know the old PAS Packaging showed a picture of it but if you read the actual instructions you will see that they agree with me. Or I agree with them. Anyway, it turns out that not all graphic designers are personal safety experts. Is your belay loop not strong enough?  Far from it! But it is not designed to withstand the constant fabric-on-fabric action of a girth hitch or even a rope. The belay loop is a carabiner only zone. Don't believe me? check out this  excellent post from Backcountry Beacon for some interesting facts on belay loops.

FAQ:
Is chocolate too delicious?
No. It is the perfect amount of deliciousness.

Do I need more than one of these things to always be redundant?
You do not need to buy two attachment systems. Redundancy can come in many forms. You can even use the rope as your second attachment point. When you can't use the rope, like if you are setting up for rappel, just throw in another sling for good measure.

Does this make me look fat?
 I take the 5th.

Where should I store my attachment on my harness?
I shoot for a gear loop under my other gear. Some folk "keelhaul" it through their legs and right past their nethers. To me, that just seems like you are asking for it. Really this is personal preference. However, I value my reproductive capabilities. Maybe one day, someone else will as well. :(

Should I fear Clowns?
Yes.

What about a large party of followers?
Anchor stations get crowded. Consider putting your followers on a long leash of webbing or cord to get them to a point of safety and comfort, far away from the belay. They could always use their end of the rope as an attachment as well.
*Pro Tip: Have a distinct anchor carabiner marking for everyone in your party. The gaudier the better. My favorite so far was pink nail polish with Hello Kitty Stickers :) This way everyone knows who is attached where.

Where should I pee?
Check out this handy flowchart to determine the ideal urination location.



Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Thursday, August 22, 2013

Vertical Darwinim: Slings 'n' Things

Recently, I was asked about the safety level of girth hitching a sling to a tricam in a top rope anchor. My gut reaction was that it is absolutely fine as I have done it many times before. Then that nagging feeling of doubt snuck up on me. Do I really know what I think I know?   So, I did my due diligence and found some research.

First of all, why would anyone girth hitch a sling to a tricam or other nylon slung piece of pro? Why not just use a carabiner?  The obvious answer is that it can get you out of a jam if you are short on biners and need to extend a piece. The less obvious situation is that your piece is positioned so that attaching a carabiner would position the biner on the edge of a rock. This is a very bad place for a biner as it may cantilever over the edge, possibly bending or deforming the biner. In this case it is much preferable to make a softer nylon to nylon connection and extend the piece around the corner. In the case of a cam a girth hitch directly to the stem will suffice, but in the case of a tricam, girth hitching nylon to nylon is unavoidable.


So, if that is the only option you have, is it okay? Will it greatly reduce the strength? I found some compelling and disturbing research posted on the black diamond quality control lab. As it turns out, girth hitching a sling to another sling can actually reduce the strength by up to 50%. (Just FYI, when it does break, it is usually the THINNER sling that breaks.) This shocking strength reduction might permanently turn you off to the idea of girth hitching slings altogether. But some simple math shows that there may be times when this practice is acceptable.

Let's break it down. We can assume that our master point carabiner can hold a maximum force of 22KN. We can also assume that a well equalized 3 point anchor should distribute this force among three points of protection leaving each piece responsible for roughly 7.33333333.... KN lets round up to 8KN to adjust for a low angle of attack. Note that a .75 Camalot is only rated to 9KN. Now consider taking a 22KN sling and girth hitching it to that Camalot to reduce its effectiveness by half.  The now 11KN sling is still stronger than the .75 Camalot which still more than handles the distributed overall fall force.  Then remember that this scenario deals with maximum forces and real forces in a top rope scenario are far less than 22KN.

In summary, in many cases even a weakened sling should be effective in sharing the load of a top roping climber. Furthermore, if the piece that you are slinging is rated to anything less than 11kn,  your piece will pop before your sling breaks. Of course all of this math is based on a new, full strength sling. An old sling will start at a disadvantage and therefore fail at a lower level of force. It is recommended that slings be replaced regularly as per manufacturers suggestions. (usually every 5 years)

I am currently looking into an alternative to girth hitching yet have not found any research to support my new strategy. Any engineers out there have a pull test machine that they would like to use to help out your climbing community?

What have we learned today?
  • Always make sure slings are in good shape and regularly replaced (about every 5 years)
  • Use a carabiner when you can.
  • If you cannot use a carabiner, directly girth hitch to the plastic cam stem.
  • If there is no cam stem, girth hitching is okay as long as you know your anchor can handle it.
  • Never girth hitch to a wired nut or hex. There are other ways to extend those pieces. Ask me about it.
  • Listen to your small voice of doubt. Do research. Ask questions. Know that you know.


Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

On the Rack: PMI Verglas 8.1 (Twin/Half Ropes)

How many people do you usually climb with? How many are usually with you on your multi-pitch team?  These are important questions because the size of your climbing party can determine not only the complexity of your process but also the distribution of your gear. Disproportionate weight distribution on a long approach can waste valuable team energy and change the tone from a fun day of climbing to a ruthless slog up a scree pile.

On my last trip to Red Rocks, I found myself as the leader in a party of two. Not bad for single pitch sport but considering the magnitude of the routes we were planning, it quickly became clear that we were going to need two ropes to safely descend. Through an unfortunate mishap, my primary rope was melted in half so... I was in the market for a new line.  I almost pulled the trigger on an exact replacement when I realized I had an opportunity to redefine rather than replace. I dove in and purchased a set of PMI Verglas 8.1mm twin/half ropes. This was my first outing with half/twin ropes and I have to say they were game changing. 

Basics of Twin Roping and Half Roping:
Half roping has been around for a long time and if you don't know about it by now, you should.  The idea is to run two thinner independent lines. This leads to a bit more rope management at the belay stations but there are some major benefits. First off, you can greatly reduce rope drag by alternating ropes instead of zig-zagging a single rope on wandering routes. Secondly, you have a backup rope just incase something happens... (Half roping is commonly used in leading ice; think sharp edges or crampons and ice tools.) Thirdly, you have enough rope to do a double rope rappel without having to trail a line which can get heavy and messy as well.  Last but not least is the weight savings (discussed below), and the ability to distribute the weight of a rope across two packs.

My new best friends...
Sorry, Beer.
Twin roping means using two smaller ropes as if they were one rope. This should only be done with ropes specifically designated "twin".  Many half ropes are not up to the task of rubbing agains the other rope in the same carabiner. I should mention that we also had some straight up sport lines on the tic list and were able to use the twin rated Verglas for those lines as well without having to pack another single line in the gear suitcase.  

Weight Savings:
A an average 10.2 rope weighs in at around 69 grams per meter. At 60 meters that comes out to be 9.1 pounds of rope in your pack. On big routes you are going to need two of them, so count on 18.2 pounds of rope. (Yes, Yes, I know you can use a tagline...)  The PMI Verglas are each only 8.1 mm with a weight of 42 grams per meter. That means at 60 meters each of these ropes is only 5.4 pounds; double it up for twin/half roping and you are looking at a total of 10.8 pounds of rope compared to 18.2 pounds. Plus you can split that 10.8 pounds between two packs and share the load on the approach. With my new rack of lightweight cams and biners, the hike in was a breeze for both of us.  

Fall Performance:
Each of the PMI Verglas are individually rated to 8 falls and could withstand a climbing fall scenario on its own. However, the decreased diameter means they are less hearty than a beefy single rope and sharp edges etc could cause failure in a catastrophic situation.  That's why you double them up. They are rated as such because in a half roping situation, one rope with take the majority of the fall force and the other will serve as a backup. Used together as twin ropes, they are rated to a whopping 18 falls which is generally higher than most single ropes because they share the force of the fall. For tiny ropes, they are surprisingly durable.

Overall Impressions:
From the first unravelling to the packing up at the end of the trip, the Verglas ropes felt solid yet supple. They had a very nice feel and glide, yet were able to lock into my ATC Guide with ease. I even enjoy the available color options(Make sure you get two different colors!) You can just tell that these ropes are high quality when you work with them. I am immensely pleased with my purchase even though.. wait for it...  I payed full price! They are worth every penny.

Do you need a set? 

No.

It really all depends on what your objectives are. It would be silly to get a set for Red Wing or Taylor's or even the N
orth Shore. Only pick up a set if you are planning on a large number of long routes with double rope raps and are looking for flexibility in packing and gear placement. Otherwise it is just a whole lot of rope and, as with all half ropes, they can be a pain to manage at times. Twice the rope means twice the tangles.  Sometimes one sturdy cord is all you need, but then there are those times when we need to redefine instead of replace.

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Is Your Anchor Screaming for Help?: 4 Subtle Signs

Part of the fun of a day at the top-roping crag is getting to see the menagerie of anchor styles at the top of the cliff line; some better than others. We have all seen climbers using a sketchy anchor all day without incident. In fact, the number of accidents from blown anchors is surprisingly less than expected.  That is because modern climbing gear is so effective that, in most cases, one well slung boulder could be enough to hold the force of a typical top rope fall.  Even so, this is no excuse for setting non-redundant and poorly equalized anchors. If crappy anchors are not failing, how do people know the difference between a well set anchor and poorly set one?  My point here is that our anchors don't give us feedback until they completely fail...or do they?  Actually, there are several small signs that may indicate your anchors are poorly equalized.

1. Pieces Popping or Walking
Repeated use unpredicted movement lead to expansion and contraction of your anchor system. Hence,  force vectors have shifted leaving your poor piece to adjust to changing conditions.  When this happens, pieces can pop out or walk back into an ineffective position. Whatever the case, if your pieces have shacked up at a new address, your anchor was not well set and equalized.

2. Fused Nuts and Hexes
Poor equalization means that one strand of your anchor takes on a disproportionately high force relative to the other pieces.  In the case of nuts and hexes(and tri-cams, for that matter), when most of your anchor force relies on one of them, it has a tendency to fuse into the crack and can be a real pain to get out. If I have a tree and a nut in the same system, I give the tree strand a little extra tension to give the nut a fighting chance.  Well set nuts and hexes should come out as intuitively and smoothly as they were put in.

3. Webbing Wear Marks
Webbing is stretchy by nature. When weighted it will move, and if placed over a rough edge it may start to wear. Padding the edge can help in this situation but those wear marks could tell you something about the forces demanded of each piece. If one of the pieces has a wear mark from the edge and the others do not, that piece took more force and was the primary contributor to your anchor. Try for equal wear or no wear at all.

4. Stubborn Knots
Clearly the master knot in your system is typically a bear to untie. But what about the other knots in your system?  Have you noticed that one of your knots is more difficult to untie than the others? That might inform you of an uneven distribution of force throughout your anchor. The greater the force on that strand, the more difficult that knot wil be to untie. This is a clear sign of poor equalization.

Shouldn't we all take time for reflection on how well our anchors performed? Shouldn't we seek advice and critique from a trained professional? Are your anchors quietly screaming for help? Are you listening?

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Road Trip: Top Five Car Games

Ah, Nebraska! The perfect 455 miles of nondescript landscape for us to really get to know each other. Whatever should we do? We could continue to discuss our increasingly similar thoughts on bolting.... We could have a lively debate about the potentially disruptive geopolitical events occurring in China... I know! We could play a game!

With the 4th of July weekend closing in, I assume many of us will take to the road in vehicles crammed to the dome light with gear.  My patriotic gift to you is a list of my five favorite road trip games listed in ascending order.  Buckle up!

#5 Twenty Questions
Pretend to be anything that you have wanted to be: an iguana?  a skateboard? something your father is actually proud of? Your friends have twenty yes or no questions to guess what you are. A word to the wise... You'd better know a thing or two about what you are pretending to be. None of those "maybe" answers. Also, you will be surprised how often you lose count of how many questions are left. 
Players: Anyone who still cares by question 12. 
Effective Mileage: 50
Pro Tip: Be a Spirochaete!

#4 The Alphabet Game
Start with A and get to Z before your friends can. Feel the thrill of victory when you find that last Z while everyone shares a sigh of relief that the game is finally over. Or go hardcore and not be finished until you have lapped the loser in last place. Only one letter per sign. First called, first scored. 
Players: Any literate passengers
Effective Mileage: 100
Pro Tip: Find the Quiznos

#3 "What's that smell?" 
Maybe it's in the cooler? Or your friends pack? Or maybe it's the dog? I don't know if it is really a game but it gives you something to do and it often takes quite a while to identify. A time tested classic, especially in climber vehicles. 
Players: Unfortunately, we are all in this one together. 
Effective Mileage: 200?
Pro Tip: It's probably you.

#2 Car Bingo
Remember the little cardboard bingo cards with the red sliding plastic windows?  Pick up a few at the only place I have ever seen them, Crackerbarrel. Whoever gets bingo first probably deserves a beer or something.  Maybe wait until you aren't driving anymore... unless you're in Texas.
For a more personalized experience, make your own cards about what you might see or stuff that could happen on the road. Don't forget your blotter!
Players: Where's my Bingos?
Effective Mileage: 500
Pro Tip: Give your buddy the card with "pay phone" on it.

#1 THE COW GAME
The Cow Game has a little bit of everything: life and death, triumph and defeat, math and livestock. Do I need to go on?  Simply choose teams; drivers side vs. passengers side. Whenever you pass cows in a field, COUNT THEM! Easier said than done. That number goes toward your total points. Whoever has the most points (read "cows") at the end wins.  But beware... If you pass a graveyard on your side, ALL of your cows DIE!  Of course you can add other rules as well. How about if you spot a military vehicle, punch the ceiling and kill 50 of your opponents cows? Pass a McDonalds on your side and loose 10 cows...or horses if you are counting them as well.  Why not throw chickens or dogs into he mix? This is your game and Nebraska isn't getting any shorter.  
Players: Two savage teams. If uneven numbers, help goes to the drivers side. 
Effective Mileage: 1,237,378 or until you are there...
Pro Tip: Surprise your enemy by instating the "_______sucks" rule, where you announce that your friend sucks and you just steal some of your opponents cows.

Have a safe trip, both on the road and on the rock!

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.















Monday, June 17, 2013

On the Rack: Black Diamond X4 Cams

Many of you may have seen the picture of my shiny new rack. I am pleased to say that all of the gear is now sufficiently scuffed and well loved after a solid  two weeks of western climbing. For my new rack I decided to invest in Black Diamond cams. I was especially excited to learn that I would be able to pre-order the nex X4 cams before I had to pack for my trips. So I ordered a set and have used them for any cam placements less than a number one. Now, after getting a few miles under my belt, I feel obligated and qualified to let people know what I think of them. So here goes...

The new BD X4 cams span the gap between Camalots and Aliens. The tried and true design of flexible stem Aliens have already been emulated by the Metolius Master Cam and lately renewed by Fixe. Black Diamond has put their own spin on that concept by creating a flexible stem cam that utilized BDs dual axle design for increased expansion range. They have an armored stem protector and they also are designed to lighter than the Camalots of equivalent size. 

So what do I think of them?  The sizing has been great and the consistent color scheme has made a very easily accessible rack, especially when paired with matching colors of the ultralight Camp Nanos. 
The flexible stem is very pliant which has given me a great sense of security especially with smaller pieces on sketchy traverses or in places with a lot of possible walking or movement. They are incredibly ergonomic as they are comfortable to hold an very easy to manipulate. The trigger action for the most part is smooth and effective. The weight is noticeably lighter than other BD Camalots of the same range. And they just look cool. 

I have not taken any whippers on them yet but here's to hoping they would hold. My only possible complaint is that they seem to be incredibly susceptible to reduced trigger action from dirt and dust etc. My regular Camalot C4s still have buttery smooth action while I already feel that I need to get in there and lube up the lobes on my X4s because the trigger motion has slightly deteriorated.  Only time will tell about their durability, especially that of the kevlar trigger cords. But at this point, I am very satisfied with my purchase and look forward to using them on many climbs to come.

Let me know if you have any questions or would like to see them in action. I can bring them along sometime.

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Battle of the Sexes: Climbing Technique Round

*Disclaimer* The following post contains vast generalizations for the purpose of thought provoking self-analysis. These comments pertain to broad typicalities of novice climbers. Give it some thought and find your own truth.  Also, posting this may decrease my chances of getting a date. 

Climbing is a romantic sport. It involves teamwork, encouragement, communication, intense physical exertion, grunting, and a lot of looking at your partner's backside. Who could ask for a better date?

Then why so much fighting? Men always seem to be shouting for their female climbing partners to "Just go for it!" The female partners try the monstrous move in vain and eventually find their own damn way up the wall. Then they swap belays and the women urge the men to use their feet which the men promptly ignore and usually make the route way harder than it needed to be.

Men and women have different styles of climbing due mainly to two factors: center of gravity and upper body strength. These factors matter because they determine which parts of a climber's body lead and which parts follow. This matters because leading with your top or bottom half greatly changes your balance and energy exertion on the wall.

Men have a higher center of gravity, and relatively greater upper body strength. The high center of gravity leads the male climber to lead with the chest and follow with the feet. The upper body strength tends to focus the male climber's attention on the handholds and less on the footholds.  This means that men often pull themselves into moves, lock off, and fix their balance by finding feet after the fact. While bold and daring, this tactic uses a lot of energy and often leaves men scrambling to correct with their feet, or more likely, giving up on good feet all together.  Just watching this style makes me tired!

Women generally have a lower center of gravity and relatively weaker upper body strength. The low center of gravity means that women tend to lead with their lower half and follow with their upper half. The less powerful upper body strength causes women to trust their footholds more than their handholds.  This means that women are more likely to push themselves as far as they can with their legs and then scramble to find hands that will allow them to balance on their feet. This method requires less pulling energy but also tends to throw women off balance as they find themselves stuck in the middle of a move instead of confidently resting in between the moves. This style looks to be unconfident and tenuous at best.

Who is right? Should men climb more like women? Or should women climb more like men?

As with all relationships between men and women, the answer lies in compromise.  Women and men both could stand to take a lesson from each other in terms of movement and balance. Men have the upper body thing down pat, so they should focus on finding feet to remain in balance throughout the move instead of finding balance as an afterthought.  Women should learn to dial back on the legs and not always push into the next move before they are balanced and ready. Hanging straight from your arms, instead of pushing your legs to full extension, will help you find your optimal resting posture and make you feel more confident on the wall in the long run.

My hope is that we all can learn to get along, or at least spray meaningful, gender-thoughtful beta at our opposite-sex climbing partners.  Regardless, a little bit compromise can go a long way in smoothing over not only the differences in our climbing, but also in our day to day relationships.

"Be excellent to each other."
-Bill S. Preston Esq. 1989


Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Tuesday, June 4, 2013

On the Rack: Keylock Carabiners


I was recently in the process of creating a new set of alpine draws to accompany my new trad rack.  I had already decided on 8mm Mammut contact slings because of their light weight and non-snagging profile.  But I was still searching for a lightweight, keylock style carabiner. I know that there are a lot of light weight wire gates that would have worked, but very few of them (with maybe the exception of the Heilum and the Hoodwire/OZ) were keylock-style. This was an important feature to me for a quick, smooth release while leading.

Carabiner choice is really based on style, weight, price and personal preference.  I had already decided on the style. I wanted to go light, I wanted to save money, and ultimately I wanted something that just felt good to use. My research lead me towards Wild Country Heliums, but I didn't like the nose design. I considered the OZ and the Hoodwire but the gate action was not as comfortable for me. (*While the Helium, Oz, and Hoodwire are not true keylock biners, their design achieves the same goal) I wasn't sure about the Ange L with the new mono-wire design, and again, the weight to price ratio just wasn't quite right.

On several occasions I almost jumped in and bought a full set of biners just because they were on sale.  I am glad I waited.  At the last minute, I found an option which I had not previously researched. I settled on the Ange S (On sale for $8.50 each). At 28g each they were lighter than the Heliums, with a great nose shape and excellent action. They only thing I wasn't sure about was the size.  They are slightly smaller than a full size biner and I thought they might be awkward to use.

After several large, multi-pitch climbs, I am glad to say that they have performed really well on the wall and the weight savings on the approach have been a godsend. The smaller size took a little getting used to, but I was able to clip and extend my alpine draws without any incident. Even with a smaller gate opening, they took my twin ropes with ease.   It actually has made other biners feel too big! Go figure!

Here is a chart from my research with a price to weight comparison for your enjoyment. The prices used are all MSRP. Of course, the prices you find will hopefully be less.  Happy shopping!

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.



Saturday, June 1, 2013

Vertical Darwinism: Adapt or Perish

How do you know you know?
For the most part, the teaching of climbing safety methods is often much like an oral history. Methods get passed down from generation to generation and are accepted as true. Even when the technology or situation changes, I have seen my fair share of climbers confidently use inappropriate and dangerous methods of anchoring and belaying. They even post pictures of themselves belaying incorrectly on Facebook.  Their absolute confidence means that they are either completely oblivious to the risks that they are exposed to, or that they are absolutely sure that they are doing it right. Both are incredibly dangerous.

Often our mistakes occur when we take an old method and apply it to a new tool or context. When conditions change we must be vigilant to completely rethink our actions and see if they work under the new situation. Below are two of the most common examples of incorrectly applying a previously valid method to a new scenario.

Failure to Adapt to New Technology:
Before tube style belay devies (ATC, Pyramid, etc) mountaineers often used a friction knot called a munter hitch to belay their climber to safety.  The munter hitch locked by matching your hands up and outward from your harness.  This was a very convenient place to switch your hands while the rope was matched in front of you. However, with the advent of newer tube style devices, the brake position is now at your hip which necessitates a new style of belaying involving adjusting hands while the rope is below your waist.  Unfortunately, some venues and programs still teach the posture and style that was effective for the munter hitch while using a tube style device. This method works poorly with the new tool, but some continue to belay using the old method, making dangerous hand switches and leaving them with poor leverage for braking and lowering.

Quick Check: When you belay, if your brake hand thumb points away from your belay tool, you are using the old style with a new tool and are doing it WRONG.  If your brake hand thumb points toward your belay tool you are using the updated method. Congrats on evolving! 

Failure to Adapt to New Context:
A majority of climbers learn to belay on slingshot top rope (belayer at the bottom, anchor at the top, climber sending confidently somewhere in between). Then on their first magical trip to the North Shore of Lake Superior, they confidently set up a a slingshot top rope and sit six inches form the anchor, all the while belaying off their harness. Lowering is a pain. When the climber falls they get pinned to the rock against the anchor.  The whole day is scary but luckily there are no major incidents and they go to the bar to plan their next awesome day of climbing at Shovel Point.  Porting the Slingshot Toprope design to a top-belay scenario can be disastrous. Just recently, a dear friend had her thumb broken in this way. Instead, a hanging belay should be designed and the fall force put directly on the anchor instead of on the belayer's harness.

Quick Check: Do you top belay off of your harness or off of the anchor with an auto locking device? After reading this I hope you know which one is correct. 


Breaking the Cycle:
Why don't we question our own methods? Possibly ego or fear of finding out we have been doing it wrong all along? Fear of growing and changing? Excellent climbers should constantly adapt to their situation and respond accordingly. Stubborn, righteous attitudes will catch up with you eventually.

Why don't we question others methods? Fear of confrontation, or ruining a day of climbing? Maybe because we are not confident in our own knowledge? Open and honest communication about methods and safety are the core of a solid climbing team. Don't worry about hurt feelings. Sacrifice a little pride for a safe day of climbing. 

Drop the ego. Ask questions. Challenge methods. Constantly adapt your methods to your situation. Make safety a priority.  Seek a trained coach who will set you and your climbing partners on the right path.


Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

*Update-5/4/13- After Talking to a trusted friend, i was informed that the injury on the North Shore occurred not while belaying off the harness, but with a Grigri on the anchor. Regardless, the setup might have been safer with a hanging belay rather than running the rope over the edge of the cliff.

Also, it was brought to my attention that I may have made it seem like I was suggesting a "never/always" philosophy around top belay. That is far from my intention.  I was merely trying to say that we should always choose the most appropriate method for each individual circumstance. We should not blindly transfer skills form one context to another. I appreciate the open discussion which this article has stirred up. That is in part why I started this blog.