Cold Case: Ice Gear 101

The biggest barrier to ice climbing is getting the gear. Well that, and seasonal weather patterns. (Winter is coming!) As with any sport, If you don't have the right gear you will get less from the experience. The specific gear you need is dictated by your specific type of activity. Ice climbing is a broad term that covers a wide range of adventure. On one end of the spectrum you have Alpine Mountaineering, attaining large summits by tackling glaciers and snowfields. On the other end you have Technical Ice, scaling actual walls of ice that can be vertical or even overhanging. Depending on your objective, your needs can be more alpine, more technical, or a mix. Either way you should know what gear serves what purpose so that you are best prepared for your objective. Below is a very basic run down of the types of ice gear that you might find and a brief description of their uses. For pictures you can follow along with this slideshow that I created when giving this presentation to the MN Rovers.

Boots: Hard Shell vs Soft Shell
Hard shell boots offer more support than soft shell boots. This can be an advantage because it can create a stronger connection to your crampons.  The double-layer design also can keep you a bit warmer than certain soft shell, single-layer boots. They are heavy though and can be clumsy to work with. Soft shell boots have become much more popular over the last few years because of their overall comfort and flexibility. They are lighter weight and ideal for technical ice climbing. The also look cooler.

For more info on boot and crampon selection, check out this Rock and Ice article.

Crampons: Three Variables
Points- Glacier vs Technical- Glacier crampons are identified by their flat, downward curving points. they are more flexible because they are designed for hiking long distances They have non replaceable points and are usually the ones you get when you rent crampons from a local outfitter. They work for technical ice but technical crampons work much better. They have points like ice tools so they penetrate ice for better foot placements. They have replaceable tips and are usually stiffer for better boot connection.

Connections- Step in vs Strap on- Step in crampons require a special boot with a ledge of hard rubber on the front and back so that the "bail"(hard metal wire), has something to lock into. This operates a lot like a ski boot: step in and snap the binding shut.  More modern designs of crampons are using a strap on system using a rubber strap on the toes to secure the boot to the crampon. This works with more styles of boots but arguably gives a softer, less effective connection.

Configuration-Dual vs Mono- Like camels, some crampons have one point,some have two. Dual point is the more common configuration for beginners. It gives the climber more stability when it comes to ankle rotation. Mono point is the single point configuration. It offers more flexibility and rotation on the toe of the crampon and also deeper penetration as the kicking force is not split between two points. This is often used by dry toolers as the pick on the crampon can fit in the same places as the tool pick does.

For more info on crampon selection, REI did a nice job putting this article together.

Tools: Mountaineering vs Technical
Mountaineering tools are designed for stabilization, self arrest, and anchoring on the vast glaciers and slopes of bigger mountains. They are not designed for vertical ice. The long shaft makes for a slow swing and the straight handle would be incredibly difficult to hold on to with a downward pull. As climbers have pushed into more technical routes, tools have become shorter, lighter, and more aggressive. A technical tool has a curved shaft and ergonomic handle to make swinging and hanging on easier. While they are not the workhorse tools that mountaineering tools can be, they are specifically designed for speed and accuracy when swinging. Leashes were introduced to help climbers keep a grip on these shorter tools, but as handle design improved, technical ice climbers have cast off their leashes for the improved maneuverability that leashless climbing offers.

Outdoor Gear Lab put together a nice buying guide for mountaineering tools and Rock and Ice has review page for more technical tools.

Extra: T and B Rating?
Both picks and shafts have a circled T or a B rating stamped right on it. What does it mean? The B stand for Basic which means it can withstand less force than a shaft or pick with a T (Technical) rating. So is the T rating better to have? I actually prefer B rated picks for ice because they are thinner an give better ice penetration than T picks. But when I am dry tooling, I would go for a T pick every time. The forces exerted on a pick why dry tooling are intense and I can feel my B picks flexing in ways that make me uncomfortable. This is a nice summary of the B and T pick dilemma.

Which gear is the best to get? Just choose the right tool for the right objective.

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Cold Case: N00B Tips for Ice Climbing

When I first started ice climbing I thought I would NEVER go ice climbing. Why would anyone want to hack away at a wall of ice in freezing cold weather? That did not sound like a good time at all. It sounded like a lot of work in uncomfortable conditions. The next season, a guide I was working with twisted my arm and had me come along to set up anchors and manage clients. At least I was getting paid to be cold.  When the clients were exhausted they put me on the rope. Turns out, it WAS a lot of work and I was in fact cold.  So, no surprises there.  What I didn't expect was the fantastic pump and the increased level of challenge I encountered on the wall.  So, I did what any reasonable climber would do. I bought all the gear right away.


Even though I very much enjoyed the experience there are a few things that I wish I would have known at the time. Here are some very obvious but important tips for getting the most out of your first time ice climbing.

1. Ice is actually water in disguise!
Ice climbing can be remarkably damp. If you are climbing a live flow during the day you are almost guaranteed to get wet. It sneaks up on you. Just a little bit here and there starts to add up. If your clothes get wet, you will not get dry. If you are not dry, you WILL get cold. If you get cold, you will not be happy. If you are not happy, you will not have as much fun. If you are not having fun, you will not get invited to the bar afterwards. So, stay dry if you want to party with townies. Wear as many layers as you need to stay warm, but the outermost layer needs to be waterproof, especially your gloves.

2. You are actually thirsty!
Winter outdoor activities dehydrate you quickly without you noticing. You don't feel hot so you don't want to drink water. After a while you may start to feel tired, woozy, or not quite with it. That is exactly where mistakes start to happen. Go for your Nalgene. What's that you say? It's frozen? Oh. I didn't see that coming... How about bringing a heat source or an insulated bottle so that your only source of life giving water doesn't turn into the most boring popsicle ever? Food also freezes! *Pro tip: Drive around for 20 minutes to defrost bagels on your dashboard!

3. Ice explodes!
Hitting a frozen substance with a metal pick right next to your face is a terrible idea. It tends to explode. Wear eye protection. Just do it. It doesn't have to be fancy, it just has to be there. Grab your favorite shop glasses, snorkeling goggles, or welding mask and get to work. Actually I prefer sunglasses on a sunny day for protection from both ice shards and reflective glare. On cloudy days, a good pair of clear racquetball goggles does the trick.  Also,  if you have any composure on the wall, aim for the concave (indented) areas in the ice. Convex(bulging out) ice formations will almost certainly blow up in your face because...science.

4. Just come down!
I know you really want to get to the top because it would make you win climbing. But there is a very good chance that on your first time you may not get there. Falling is very common and I wholeheartedly encourage people to get back on that wall and push their limits. However, beginners have a tendency to hang on the rope for a long time, not knowing that they are actually spent. Your best chance of sending a route is when you are warm and well rested. With each attempt your pump builds on the pump that was there before. Every minute you are on the wall, your hands are getting colder. Push your limits but know that you have a much better chance of succeeding if you come down, warm up, and rest.

5. Your rental gear sucks!
Ever rent any gear from anywhere? Chances are it sucks. The edges aren't sharp. It doesn't fit well. It might not even be the exact gear you need for the situation. But how would you know? My first time on ice was with mountaineering crampons and straight-leashed tools. There is very specialized gear for different types of climbing. You can read all about it in my post "Ice Gear 101" At least go into it knowing that the gear you are renting may be making this much more difficult than it should be. Don;t let crappy gear make you feel unsuccessful.  I encourage you to learn about the correct gear for you to rent and also to borrow good gear from friends to see what works the best for you.  It is a poor carpenter who blames his tools...but c'mon! have you seen these lousy crampons?

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Vertical Darwinism: Figure 8 vs. Double Bowline

This is going to be a bumpy ride.  It has been debated for years and lately the argument has been heated. So, I guess it is my turn to throw my hat into the ring and see how much backlash I get. This is still something I am researching so please let me know of any reliable resources that you might shed further light on this topic.

Lets start out with a metaphor. Two cars: a minivan and a sporty convertible. One is known and loved. It has room for 7 in its roll cage and a reliable yet sluggish automatic transmission. The other is not as widely used but often coveted. It has a drop top and a zippy 6 speed manual. Assuming that both vehicles are in brand new condition, which one is safer?

The Figure 8 and Double Bowline cage match has picked up some steam with the recent accident involving John Long and an incomplete bowline knot. Many have taken the pulpit and proclaimed that the Double Bowline is a dangerous knot and should be banned from climbing gyms. Let's look at the arguments...

The Case Against the Double Bowline:
Strength- The Double Bowline knot technically weakens the rope more than a Figure 8 (*Numbers vary but all concur that the Figure 8 weakens the rope less.)

Simplicity- The Figure 8 is easily recognizable and therefore easy to check giving climbing partners a no-brainer check. The Double Bowline seems more complicated to check and may confuse a climbing party making it difficult for partners to correctly double check.

Safety Record- The properly tied figure 8 has, to my knowledge,  a 100%  safety record while the Double Bowline has at least been associated with several high-profile climbing accidents.

In Defense of the Double Bowline:
Strength- All knots weaken the rope by a certain percent, some more than others. Even by having a higher percentage of rope weakening, the strength of a well-maintained rope terminated in a Double Bowline is still well within the range of acceptable safety.

Simplicity- Some might argue that the Double Bowline is in fact a simpler knot to tie (one can do it without looking) and, after untying, it does not leave any knot in the rope to get snagged in anchors when pulling it after a lead. Climbing partners do question it when they don't understand it. But shouldn't that questioning prompt deeper investigation of  the correctness of the tie-in point and therefore a more thorough double check?

Safety Record- While the Double Bowline has been accused of associating itself with climbing accidents, I have not been able to find one documented case of a properly tied and backed up Double Bowline failure. John Long and Lynn Hill both attribute their falls to not completing their knot, which could happen with any knot if the climbing team is distracted.

The Verdict:
The THEORIST in me looks at the strength, the safety record, and the foolproof nature of the Figure 8(it even works moderately well when not finished) and quickly comes to the conclusion that it is the only knot that anyone should ever use for climbing.  Using any knot that has inferior stats would be dumb.

However, my inner PRAGMATIST has a slightly different opinion. I know that in climbing, different challenges call for different solutions.  I know that all knots have advantages and disadvantages. I know that each knot has a unique set of features that could be handy in certain scenarios. (For example: In joining two rope for rappel, the EDT weakens the rope by around 50% but is skilled at avoiding flakes and cracks) Maybe there is a time when the features of a slightly weaker knot could be advantageous?

So, which knot do I use?  I use both depending on the type of climbing, terrain, partners, weather, and rope. I use the Figure 8 in prolonged climbing situations, or when I have new partners, or when the rope is thick or frozen.  I use the Double Bowline for shorter climbs, with pliable ropes, experienced partners, or when I am going to be pulling rope through a fixed set of anchors so I don't forget to undo my starter knot. IT DEPENDS.

Which Car is Safest?
Obviously the safest car is the one left in the garage. But climbers are creatures of action; sloth does not become us. We need to choose one car to get to the crag.   Even the minivan with the five star safety rating could be operated by a texting teenager, and the relatively more dangerous convertible captained by an incredibly alert and responsible motorist.

At the end of the day, I would argue that, all other things being equal, the safest car is the one with the best driver.

*Please feel free to contact me if you are aware of any resources that might help shed light on this issue. Lets continue the conversation as we learn together.

Resources
http://www.bethandevans.com/pdf/8_strength.pdf
http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/Not-the-Knot.html?page=all
http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=3951.msg24432#msg24432


Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Pulling Plastic: The Nylon Python

You are lowering your leader after their solid send, but you have to pause, effectively dangling them just feet above the gawking boy scout troop. Why? Because you are now engaged in a battle with a coiled python of nylon who refused to go quietly through your belay device.  You struggle to untangle the beast, all the while the boy scouts below your climber await like baby birds with mouths agape.

WHY? !!!?!!!1!

Why do gym ropes get all twisty? 
For that matter why do any ropes get all twisty? Imagine a rope in space. If you twist one end, the twist will travel like a wave and the other end 60m yonder will eventually turn as well, effectively expelling the twist. . One twist goes in, one twist comes out the other side. (I haven't tried it but it would be a really cool experiment when we get our passenger space programs running. Also slack-lining might be a lot less dangerous out there). When both ends are free to move twists have a way to escape the rope.

Bring the rope back to the gym. Check it for any damage possibly sustained upon re-entry. Flake it out on the ground. Your climber ties in. When this happens, the ends of the system are now closed. There is no way for twists to escape on that end since it is now locked in place and can't untwist. The other end is on the ground, underneath a pile of itself, rendering it unable to turn as well.  The only two ways for twists to escape this rope have now been closed off.

Then the belaying begins and there are more guilty parties involved: belay tools and brake hands. Brake hands without much effort can put small, fractional twists into the rope as they are belaying. Especially if the belayer incorporates a repetitive circular motion into their routine. Belay tools don't like to let twists get through. In fact they end up pushing twists down through the rope, concentrating the twists to one end. If that end is on the ground, the twists are trapped in the rope. Repeat this process a few times and all those small twists start adding up with no end in sight. To make matters worse, when finished leading, often we find both ends and coil from there towards the middle of the rope, pushing the twists to the center so they may strike at their next unassuming victim!

So what can we do avoid and/or pacify the nylon python?

1. Flake Well. Flake Often.
 Look for twists and send them to the ends of the rope to release the pressure and let them untwist. Have your climber wait to tie in until the flake is complete or else they will block the escape route. Also, be careful not to get too"circular" with your flaking and your brake hand motion. A random flaking pattern reduces the chance for repetition or a figure-eight style of flaking may help as it puts a half twist in, but takes a half twist out on the next loop.

2. Run it through.
Using the same end of the rope over and over will push the twists to the same spot. Run the rope all the way through if possible to let the twists run out the end and start from the opposite end(for both lead and top rope). Letting the full length of the rope run through the belay tool will force twists down and out of the end of the rope as well.
*Outside, a good rappel all the way to the end of the rope is very effective as it pushes twists from the center to the ends. A simulated rappel will also help. I set up a belay tool on a sling from my pull-up bar and pull the rope all the way through, starting at the center. REPEAT until tamed.

3. Be Kind. Rewind.
Coil from the center. It is much quicker to coil from the ends. But it traps twists and sends them to the center of the rope. Be considerate and take time to find the center and start there. It will reduce the frustration for the next party. It takes more time, but caring for our climbing community is worth it.
Isn't it?   Do your part, it helps everyone in the long run.

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Vertical Darwinism: Rappel Knots

"That climb was EPIC! ...how do we get down?"

On larger climbs, rappels can be longer than one rope can span. That means you need a solid way of connecting two ropes for rappelling. Clearly a knowledgeable decision needs to be made with inputs from all climbers in the party. There are many ways to join 2 ropes together for rappel. Most commonly in the climbing world you will encounter one of these three. They differ in complexity, profile, and security.  Here is a brief run down so you can make your voice heard in the discussion.

Figure 8 Bend  "Ol' Trusty"
Complexity: High  
Profile: Large  
Security: High

Pros: Just like the figure eight tie-in knot it is familiar and easy to check. It is a strong knot that has a great safety record if you dress it well and back it up with your standard fisherman knots.
Cons: It's large profile takes more rope to create and also gives it a better chance to hang up on jagged rock features. It takes a bit more time to tie than some others and can be moderately difficult to get undone after the rap.

Double Fisherman's  "It works for bracelets...so...."
Complexity: Medium
Profile: Small
Security: Medium

Pros: This is a well recognized way to join two ropes together. It has many applications for cord of all sizes from ropes to bracelets to accessory cord loops.
Cons: This knot has a tendency to fuse tightly and can be very difficult to undo. It's small profile easily slips into cracks and may hang up. There is no official back up for this knot (except another knot).

Flat Overhand a.k.a. the EDK "European Death Knot?  Really?"
Complexity: Low
Profile: Medium (offset)
Security: Medium

Pros: This very simple knot has an offset profile which has a tendency to align the cords and rotate the knot away from the rock and thereby snag less on the way down.
Cons: Testing has found that this knot weakens the rope more than the other two. Also, under high tension, there is a possibility that it may roll repeatedly toward the end of the rope. This may have been the reason for the American nickname of the "European  Death Knot." According to a tension test on 11mm dynamic rope, the knot rolled at 1400, 1940, 1990, and then broke at 2070 lbs of tension.

*Sidenote- The Flat Figure Eight (the 8 version of the EDK) has a high likelihood of rolling over and should NOT be used for rappel!

Whichever you choose there are always two rules you must remember.
1. Leave plenty of tail on both ropes to lessen the chances of slippage and rolling.
2. Always use similar diameter ropes. Thin and a thick cords are not a good match. Keep your cords within a few mm of each other.
*Bonus- While you are at it, throw some stopper knots in at the end of your rope if you are at all concerned about having enough rope to get down.  Just make sure to UNTIE them BEFORE starting your retrieval pull.

Which knot you prefer and which one works the best for your situation is up to you and your climbing party. Each method has its benefits and drawbacks. The important thing is that you understand the risks involved and accept responsibility for your choices. A majority of incidents occur on the descent. How you get down is an important decision that should be agreed upon before you leave the ground. A windy, rainy, shivering summit is no place to engage in a heated debate about safety and comfort level of all involved. This is a discussion to be had with your climbing partners before the climb. May I suggest in the car whilst driving through Nebraska?


For More Climbing Knots:
Animated Knots by Grog

Tension Testing:
http://user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Pulling Plastic: 5 Suggestions for Route Setters

What makes a beer good?

I guess it depends what you are in the mood for. Something strong? Something cheap? Something hoppy? Something malty?

There are a lot of crappy, weak beers out there. There are also beers that are really strong, but that doesn't necessarily mean they are well crafted or even enjoyable.  I will still crack one open in a pinch. But I'm not going to recommend them to my friends.

I bet we could all agree that a good beer is one that really shows the craftsmanship of the brewer. One that gives us something unique that everyone can appreciate even if it isn't their favorite style.

A good route is a lot like a good beer. The climber should instantly be able to appreciate the craftsmanship.  We are lucky to have a dedicated community of setters at our local gyms. I know they are under a lot of pressure to create a high VOLUME of routes AND continue to deliver QUALITY. I offer this post as a suggestion to new route setters and a reminder to those who have kept us climbing for years. In no way do I mean this post to be an insult. I have set routes in the past so I understand how much time effort and creativity it takes to complete a route.

With that being said...

1. Be Considerate

AKA: Don't Hate on Shorties!

Height and reach matter. Please avoid enormous reaches. Some might take the attitude that "reaches happen" and "it just makes you stronger." But if that reach is out of the realm of appropriate challenge, climbers give up and don't learn anything from it. Reasonable challenges are fine but think about these two ideas when setting...

90% Rule- If you can barely reach it, shorties definitely can't. Set holds not at the the full extent of your reach, at your fingertips(100%), but at your wrist(90%) or even forearm to give shorter people a chance.

Multiple Foot Options- Outside, the good holds may be far away but there are so many smaller options in between. An extra foot chip won't make it too easy. It just might make is more plausible and encouraging. Some of the most difficult routes have included multiple foot options that do not make it any easier, but they allow for many body types to enjoy the difficult sequence. 

Trust me. If a foot is set higher for a shorter person, I will not use it because it will throw me off balance. Likewise a shorter person will not use mine because it will stretch them out. One foot chip goes a long way. Like a Dachshund to a Great Dane, the smaller dog has to take many more steps than the bigger one. Allow for it.

2. Be Intentional

AKA: Dont spew holds!

Everyone climbs a route in a different way depending on their size, style and abilities. But routes should have an intended path. Avoid setting up a gauntlet of random holds that might be useful in different ways to different climbers. On one hand, it will still up a lot of conversation, on the other hand it just might be confusing and awkward. See #4

3. Be Consistent

AKA: Don't get carried away!

Route setters are creative people who often become inspired as they find new sequences. One move will inspire the next. That can be a thing of beauty, but it can also increase the difficulty of the route as it ascends. Even with the best intention, the 5.7 becomes harder along the way because the route setter thought, "Wouldn't it be cool if they had to..." Save the 5.10 moves for the 5.10s. Stay the course, even if it means being a bit more boring on this one. Remember the move and put it into a route where it fits. Or change the beginning of the route to fit with the style of your landmark move.

4. Be Excellent 

AKA: Improve your own climbing technique!

THE BEST ROUTES I have climbed in the gym have been set by the BEST CLIMBERS I have known. Climbers who have truly mastered the craft, understand a blend of strength and technique. This mastery can't help but seep into their routes. On a well crafted route, a climber can feel the intention, movement, and even personality of the route setter. You actually feel like them when you climb it. So, how do people feel when they climb your routes? Awkward? Frustrated? Confused? Look back on your own climbing for the reasons why.

5. Be Nice 

AKA: Don't F^%& us over!

There is fine line between creativity and cruelty. That final FU hold or turning a hold upside-down just to make it "more interesting" does not make the route more fun or even better. If you have to resort to cruelty to make your route more challenging or interesting, ask yourself why your route needs to be more interesting in the first place. But I guess that there are some people who like that kind of thing... Maybe just write a "safe word" on the route tag? How about "butterscotch" or "John Tesh"?

In Summary:

Give us consistent, intentional routes that show us your understanding of strength, movement, and balance, that also are considerate of the possibilities and limitations of our unique body types.

So...

What makes a route good?

I guess it depends what you are in the mood for. Fluid movement? Dynamic throws? Powerful slopers? Delicate crimpers?

There are a lot of weak and overrated routes out there. There are also routes that are really difficult, but that doesn't necessarily mean they are well crafted or even enjoyable. I will still climb them in a pinch. But I'm not going to recommend them to my friends.

I bet we could all agree that a good route is one that really shows the craftsmanship of the setter. One that gives us something unique that everyone can appreciate even if it isn't their favorite style.

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Vertical Darwinism: Attachment Issues

"Are you attached?" This is more than a blunt way to check the dating status of an assumed Scorpio at a local watering hole. It is a crucial question that we should always ask ourselves when hanging out at a belay station. There are many ways to attach yourself to that all-sustaining MASTER POINT. But which method is right for you?

Let me count the ways...

Slings-
A sling girth hitched to a harness can offer the security you are looking for. They work in your anchor and for slinging trees and chickenheads. So why not use them to attach yourself to an anchor? That is less of a hypothetical question than it seems. First off, girth hitching slings actually weakens their capacity. (See my "Slings and Things" post for more detail)  Secondly, slings can be loosy-goosey to deal with because of their length and lack of structure. This makes it difficult to adjust your distance from the anchor.  If you are using one you can tie limiting knots in them to add length options and give the carabiner a home base in the sling.

Daisy Chain- 
This is basically a hefty sling with sewn separations. It has more structure and seems more convenient than just using a regular old sling. So is it better? Organizationally, YES because there are a lot of little loops for you to use. Safety-wise, NO because tests have found that a high factor fall, like one from directly above an anchor, can cause stitching between the loops to fail. That is not surprising to find out because they were originally designed for use in Aiding and not intended for anyone to be falling on them. (Um... Neither are the above mentioned Slings...)

*Also note that, when using a Daisy Chain, if your carabiner is in two separate loops, you technically are in no loops at all because of Math. Topology would say that the letter B is the same as the letter O if the connector in the middle of the B gives way. A carabiner connected to both loops of the B is really hanging out in the bleak nothingness encapsulated by the O. So if you do use one, remember, "BO"...
Here is an excellent video illustrating this exact point.

Cord System- 
You will see some climbers have switched from the Daisy Chain to a wild system of cord that, using a combination of knots and magic,  can be extended to the desired length. This is a redundant system that can also be dynamic and absorb a fall depending on what type of cord you use. The only downside to this system is that it is a lot of cord hangin' out down there, which can get a bit messy and tangled. It is solid but just not as tidy as some other methods.

PAS- 
This multi-loop system consists of multiple loops. Yup.  Each loop is designed like a belay loop, where it is wrapped around itself twice, granting great strength in each segment. It is strong, compact, and stows away well. It also allows the climber to use more than one loop to attach if they deem it necessary since each loop is independent.

Cammed Webbing- 
I have also seen climbers using a strap with a camming device to adjust the length of the attachment. Mostly I see this used inside for route setting when you are tied into a rope as well. But hey, if it keeps a canoe on your roof rack...

Which Method is Best?
I don't know if there is a best, but I think there is a consensus that Slings and Daisy Chains are probably not the best. Personally, I use the PAS. I find that it is strong, lightweight, convenient, and compact. So run out and get one. Or I guess just head to REI and ask for a "climbing strap" and see what they hand you. But whatever method you choose, avoid taking falls onto anchors at close range. These falls are high fall factors which are not good for any of the above options. Anchor attachments should be for just that, attachments. They should not be dynamically weighted.

Regardless of your method, make sure it runs through your two strong points. NEVER on your belay loop.  Yes, I know the old PAS Packaging showed a picture of it but if you read the actual instructions you will see that they agree with me. Or I agree with them. Anyway, it turns out that not all graphic designers are personal safety experts. Is your belay loop not strong enough?  Far from it! But it is not designed to withstand the constant fabric-on-fabric action of a girth hitch or even a rope. The belay loop is a carabiner only zone. Don't believe me? check out this  excellent post from Backcountry Beacon for some interesting facts on belay loops.

FAQ:
Is chocolate too delicious?
No. It is the perfect amount of deliciousness.

Do I need more than one of these things to always be redundant?
You do not need to buy two attachment systems. Redundancy can come in many forms. You can even use the rope as your second attachment point. When you can't use the rope, like if you are setting up for rappel, just throw in another sling for good measure.

Does this make me look fat?
 I take the 5th.

Where should I store my attachment on my harness?
I shoot for a gear loop under my other gear. Some folk "keelhaul" it through their legs and right past their nethers. To me, that just seems like you are asking for it. Really this is personal preference. However, I value my reproductive capabilities. Maybe one day, someone else will as well. :(

Should I fear Clowns?
Yes.

What about a large party of followers?
Anchor stations get crowded. Consider putting your followers on a long leash of webbing or cord to get them to a point of safety and comfort, far away from the belay. They could always use their end of the rope as an attachment as well.
*Pro Tip: Have a distinct anchor carabiner marking for everyone in your party. The gaudier the better. My favorite so far was pink nail polish with Hello Kitty Stickers :) This way everyone knows who is attached where.

Where should I pee?
Check out this handy flowchart to determine the ideal urination location.

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Vertical Darwinim: Slings 'n' Things

Recently, I was asked about the safety level of girth hitching a sling to a tricam in a top rope anchor. My gut reaction was that it is absolutely fine as I have done it many times before. Then that nagging feeling of doubt snuck up on me. Do I really know what I think I know?   So, I did my due diligence and found some research.

First of all, why would anyone girth hitch a sling to a tricam or other nylon slung piece of pro? Why not just use a carabiner?  The obvious answer is that it can get you out of a jam if you are short on biners and need to extend a piece. The less obvious situation is that your piece is positioned so that attaching a carabiner would position the biner on the edge of a rock. This is a very bad place for a biner as it may cantilever over the edge, possibly bending or deforming the biner. In this case it is much preferable to make a softer nylon to nylon connection and extend the piece around the corner. In the case of a cam a girth hitch directly to the stem will suffice, but in the case of a tricam, girth hitching nylon to nylon is unavoidable.

So, if that is the only option you have, is it okay? Will it greatly reduce the strength? I found some compelling and disturbing research posted on the black diamond quality control lab. As it turns out, girth hitching a sling to another sling can actually reduce the strength by up to 50%. (Just FYI, when it does break, it is usually the THINNER sling that breaks.) This shocking strength reduction might permanently turn you off to the idea of girth hitching slings altogether. But some simple math shows that there may be times when this practice is acceptable.

Let's break it down. We can assume that our master point carabiner can hold a maximum force of 22KN. We can also assume that a well equalized 3 point anchor should distribute this force among three points of protection leaving each piece responsible for roughly 7.33333333.... KN lets round up to 8KN to adjust for a low angle of attack. Note that a .75 Camalot is only rated to 9KN. Now consider taking a 22KN sling and girth hitching it to that Camalot to reduce its effectiveness by half.  The now 11KN sling is still stronger than the .75 Camalot which still more than handles the distributed overall fall force.  Then remember that this scenario deals with maximum forces and real forces in a top rope scenario are far less than 22KN.

In summary, in many cases even a weakened sling should be effective in sharing the load of a top roping climber. Furthermore, if the piece that you are slinging is rated to anything less than 11kn,  your piece will pop before your sling breaks. Of course all of this math is based on a new, full strength sling. An old sling will start at a disadvantage and therefore fail at a lower level of force. It is recommended that slings be replaced regularly as per manufacturers suggestions. (usually every 5 years)

I am currently looking into an alternative to girth hitching yet have not found any research to support my new strategy. Any engineers out there have a pull test machine that they would like to use to help out your climbing community?

What have we learned today?

• Always make sure slings are in good shape and regularly replaced (about every 5 years)
• Use a carabiner when you can.
• If you cannot use a carabiner, directly girth hitch to the plastic cam stem.
• If there is no cam stem, girth hitching is okay as long as you know your anchor can handle it.
• Never girth hitch to a wired nut or hex. There are other ways to extend those pieces. Ask me about it.
• Listen to your small voice of doubt. Do research. Ask questions. Know that you know.

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

On the Rack: PMI Verglas 8.1 (Twin/Half Ropes)

How many people do you usually climb with? How many are usually with you on your multi-pitch team?  These are important questions because the size of your climbing party can determine not only the complexity of your process but also the distribution of your gear. Disproportionate weight distribution on a long approach can waste valuable team energy and change the tone from a fun day of climbing to a ruthless slog up a scree pile.

On my last trip to Red Rocks, I found myself as the leader in a party of two. Not bad for single pitch sport but considering the magnitude of the routes we were planning, it quickly became clear that we were going to need two ropes to safely descend. Through an unfortunate mishap, my primary rope was melted in half so... I was in the market for a new line.  I almost pulled the trigger on an exact replacement when I realized I had an opportunity to redefine rather than replace. I dove in and purchased a set of PMI Verglas 8.1mm twin/half ropes. This was my first outing with half/twin ropes and I have to say they were game changing. 

Basics of Twin Roping and Half Roping:

Half roping has been around for a long time and if you don't know about it by now, you should.  The idea is to run two thinner independent lines. This leads to a bit more rope management at the belay stations but there are some major benefits. First off, you can greatly reduce rope drag by alternating ropes instead of zig-zagging a single rope on wandering routes. Secondly, you have a backup rope just incase something happens... (Half roping is commonly used in leading ice; think sharp edges or crampons and ice tools.) Thirdly, you have enough rope to do a double rope rappel without having to trail a line which can get heavy and messy as well.  Last but not least is the weight savings (discussed below), and the ability to distribute the weight of a rope across two packs.

My new best friends...
Sorry, Beer.

Twin roping means using two smaller ropes as if they were one rope. This should only be done with ropes specifically designated "twin".  Many half ropes are not up to the task of rubbing agains the other rope in the same carabiner. I should mention that we also had some straight up sport lines on the tic list and were able to use the twin rated Verglas for those lines as well without having to pack another single line in the gear suitcase.  

Weight Savings:
A an average 10.2 rope weighs in at around 69 grams per meter. At 60 meters that comes out to be 9.1 pounds of rope in your pack. On big routes you are going to need two of them, so count on 18.2 pounds of rope. (Yes, Yes, I know you can use a tagline...)  The PMI Verglas are each only 8.1 mm with a weight of 42 grams per meter. That means at 60 meters each of these ropes is only 5.4 pounds; double it up for twin/half roping and you are looking at a total of 10.8 pounds of rope compared to 18.2 pounds. Plus you can split that 10.8 pounds between two packs and share the load on the approach. With my new rack of lightweight cams and biners, the hike in was a breeze for both of us.  

Fall Performance:
Each of the PMI Verglas are individually rated to 8 falls and could withstand a climbing fall scenario on its own. However, the decreased diameter means they are less hearty than a beefy single rope and sharp edges etc could cause failure in a catastrophic situation.  That's why you double them up. They are rated as such because in a half roping situation, one rope with take the majority of the fall force and the other will serve as a backup. Used together as twin ropes, they are rated to a whopping 18 falls which is generally higher than most single ropes because they share the force of the fall. For tiny ropes, they are surprisingly durable.

Overall Impressions:
From the first unravelling to the packing up at the end of the trip, the Verglas ropes felt solid yet supple. They had a very nice feel and glide, yet were able to lock into my ATC Guide with ease. I even enjoy the available color options(Make sure you get two different colors!) You can just tell that these ropes are high quality when you work with them. I am immensely pleased with my purchase even though.. wait for it...  I payed full price! They are worth every penny.

Do you need a set? 

No.

It really all depends on what your objectives are. It would be silly to get a set for Red Wing or Taylor's or even the N
orth Shore. Only pick up a set if you are planning on a large number of long routes with double rope raps and are looking for flexibility in packing and gear placement. Otherwise it is just a whole lot of rope and, as with all half ropes, they can be a pain to manage at times. Twice the rope means twice the tangles.  Sometimes one sturdy cord is all you need, but then there are those times when we need to redefine instead of replace.

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Is Your Anchor Screaming for Help?: 4 Subtle Signs

Part of the fun of a day at the top-roping crag is getting to see the menagerie of anchor styles at the top of the cliff line; some better than others. We have all seen climbers using a sketchy anchor all day without incident. In fact, the number of accidents from blown anchors is surprisingly less than expected.  That is because modern climbing gear is so effective that, in most cases, one well slung boulder could be enough to hold the force of a typical top rope fall.  Even so, this is no excuse for setting non-redundant and poorly equalized anchors. If crappy anchors are not failing, how do people know the difference between a well set anchor and poorly set one?  My point here is that our anchors don't give us feedback until they completely fail...or do they?  Actually, there are several small signs that may indicate your anchors are poorly equalized.

1. Pieces Popping or Walking
Repeated use unpredicted movement lead to expansion and contraction of your anchor system. Hence,  force vectors have shifted leaving your poor piece to adjust to changing conditions.  When this happens, pieces can pop out or walk back into an ineffective position. Whatever the case, if your pieces have shacked up at a new address, your anchor was not well set and equalized.

2. Fused Nuts and Hexes
Poor equalization means that one strand of your anchor takes on a disproportionately high force relative to the other pieces.  In the case of nuts and hexes(and tri-cams, for that matter), when most of your anchor force relies on one of them, it has a tendency to fuse into the crack and can be a real pain to get out. If I have a tree and a nut in the same system, I give the tree strand a little extra tension to give the nut a fighting chance.  Well set nuts and hexes should come out as intuitively and smoothly as they were put in.

3. Webbing Wear Marks
Webbing is stretchy by nature. When weighted it will move, and if placed over a rough edge it may start to wear. Padding the edge can help in this situation but those wear marks could tell you something about the forces demanded of each piece. If one of the pieces has a wear mark from the edge and the others do not, that piece took more force and was the primary contributor to your anchor. Try for equal wear or no wear at all.

4. Stubborn Knots
Clearly the master knot in your system is typically a bear to untie. But what about the other knots in your system?  Have you noticed that one of your knots is more difficult to untie than the others? That might inform you of an uneven distribution of force throughout your anchor. The greater the force on that strand, the more difficult that knot wil be to untie. This is a clear sign of poor equalization.

Shouldn't we all take time for reflection on how well our anchors performed? Shouldn't we seek advice and critique from a trained professional? Are your anchors quietly screaming for help? Are you listening?

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.

Road Trip: Top Five Car Games

Ah, Nebraska! The perfect 455 miles of nondescript landscape for us to really get to know each other. Whatever should we do? We could continue to discuss our increasingly similar thoughts on bolting.... We could have a lively debate about the potentially disruptive geopolitical events occurring in China... I know! We could play a game!

With the 4th of July weekend closing in, I assume many of us will take to the road in vehicles crammed to the dome light with gear.  My patriotic gift to you is a list of my five favorite road trip games listed in ascending order.  Buckle up!

#5 Twenty Questions

Pretend to be anything that you have wanted to be: an iguana?  a skateboard? something your father is actually proud of? Your friends have twenty yes or no questions to guess what you are. A word to the wise... You'd better know a thing or two about what you are pretending to be. None of those "maybe" answers. Also, you will be surprised how often you lose count of how many questions are left. 

Players: Anyone who still cares by question 12. 

Effective Mileage: 50

Pro Tip: Be a Spirochaete!

#4 The Alphabet Game

Start with A and get to Z before your friends can. Feel the thrill of victory when you find that last Z while everyone shares a sigh of relief that the game is finally over. Or go hardcore and not be finished until you have lapped the loser in last place. Only one letter per sign. First called, first scored. 

Players: Any literate passengers

Effective Mileage: 100

Pro Tip: Find the Quiznos! 

#3 "What's that smell?" 

Maybe it's in the cooler? Or your friends pack? Or maybe it's the dog? I don't know if it is really a game but it gives you something to do and it often takes quite a while to identify. A time tested classic, especially in climber vehicles. 

Players: Unfortunately, we are all in this one together. 

Effective Mileage: 200?

Pro Tip: It's probably you.

#2 Car Bingo

Remember the little cardboard bingo cards with the red sliding plastic windows?  Pick up a few at the only place I have ever seen them, Crackerbarrel. Whoever gets bingo first probably deserves a beer or something.  Maybe wait until you aren't driving anymore... unless you're in Texas.

For a more personalized experience, make your own cards about what you might see or stuff that could happen on the road. Don't forget your blotter!

Players: Where's my Bingos?

Effective Mileage: 500

Pro Tip: Give your buddy the card with "pay phone" on it.

#1 THE COW GAME

The Cow Game has a little bit of everything: life and death, triumph and defeat, math and livestock. Do I need to go on?  Simply choose teams; drivers side vs. passengers side. Whenever you pass cows in a field, COUNT THEM! Easier said than done. That number goes toward your total points. Whoever has the most points (read "cows") at the end wins.  But beware... If you pass a graveyard on your side, ALL of your cows DIE!  Of course you can add other rules as well. How about if you spot a military vehicle, punch the ceiling and kill 50 of your opponents cows? Pass a McDonalds on your side and loose 10 cows...or horses if you are counting them as well.  Why not throw chickens or dogs into he mix? This is your game and Nebraska isn't getting any shorter.  

Players: Two savage teams. If uneven numbers, help goes to the drivers side. 

Effective Mileage: 1,237,378 or until you are there...

Pro Tip: Surprise your enemy by instating the "_______sucks" rule, where you announce that your friend sucks and you just steal some of your opponents cows.

Have a safe trip, both on the road and on the rock!

Climb Smart MN is a grassroots approach to climbing education based on community and charitable giving. For information on donation based climbing lessons visit ClimbSmartMN and follow us on Facebook. With over ten years of climbing instruction, coaching, and guiding experience,  Chris Hesselbein strives to better the climbing community through personalized technique and safety education.